
See the View From the Top in Park City, Utah
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A
summertime view of Park City. |
I'm
going to be honest with you - I'm not much of a skier.
And
if I'm going to be perfectly honest with you,
I'll have to rephrase that statement to read: I'm not
a skier. Period.
It's
with shame I reveal the sad truth. I've been on a pair
of skis once, at age 12, and simply wasn't a fan. Never
mind that I'm a child of southeast Michigan, where the
nearest ski slope is built from an old landfill. Or
that although my ski instructor told me I was a 'natural',
I was more content to sit in the lodge with a cup of
hot cocoa and a book.
I
know it goes against all kinds of coolness, but I don't
ski. I don't snowboard. I don't anticipate snow with
giddiness, but rather a deep sense of dread.
So
when I was assigned to visit to Park City, one of Utah's
top ski destinations, I breathed a sigh of relief that
I'd be going in the summer. I wouldn't have to embarrass
myself with my lack of ski acumen, and better yet, I
wouldn't be worrying needlessly about falling off a
chair lift.
Little
did I know I'd end up doing both.
Hiking
Uphill is Overrated
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The
view from the top of Bald Mountain. |
It
was cheating and we knew it.
Riding
a chair lift to the top of Bald Mountain in order to
hike down, well, it seemed like we were skipping out
on a lot of hard work. Not that I minded, of course.
I was too busy enjoying the view...and the ride, once
I was assured that I wouldn't fall off the lift.
It
was quiet as we ascended the Deer Valley Resort's 10,000-foot
peak. The lifts moved smoothly above twisting dirt paths
below - for hiking and mountain biking - and I craned
my neck to get a view of resort behind us, trying to
imagine it covered in snow during peak season.
Once
we reached the mountaintop, it took only a few minutes
before I could feel the distinct change in altitude.
I was breathing harder, faster and was quickly (and
silently) glad we hadn't climbed all the way up the
mountain.
We
spent a few minutes just admiring the panoramic view
of Park City and the surrounding Wasatch Mountains,
some capped in white. And then we started down the mountain
- a leisurely hike through thick patches of evergreens,
along twisting paths lined with colorful wildflowers
and across wide plains of grassy ski runs.
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Chair
lifts at Deer Valley's Silver Lake |
For
the most part, we felt like we had the mountain all
to ourselves, having passed only two other groups on
our way down. The lack of crowds is one reason Park
City is a great vacation spot for the summer months,
especially for adventure-seeking women and families.
There wasn't a single moment during my visit that I
felt unsafe, unwelcome or claustrophobic. Plus (as I'll
talk about later), the price, being in the off-season,
was right.
We
worked up a sweat, but weren't exhausted. In fact, the
hike primed us for a hearty lunch at Royal Street Cafe,
located at the base of the mountain.
Sitting
outside on the restaurant's deck, enjoying an ice water
and a tasty BBQ pulled pork sandwich, I glanced up with
satisfaction at the mountain I had just climbed.
Well,
climbed down. I can omit that one silly word,
can't I? Sometimes
cheating is good.
Moseying
on Main Street
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Park
City's Main Street |
I
had seen Park City's Main Street numerous times on television
- but always during Sundance Film Festival, when the
road was clogged with wealthy Hollywood types in their
pricey ski duds or extravagant furs.
So
as we stood on a pedestrian bridge, studying the row
of restaurants and shops, the scene seemed vaguely familiar.
Except there were hues of green in the distance, no
hoards of celeb-wannabes, and a soothing twilight breeze.
A
trolley rolled by. A group of men sat on a bar patio,
beer mugs clinking. A mother and her toddler took a
closer look at the Town Chair Lift used to transport
vacationers to and from the nearby Park City Mountain
Resort. And as the sun started to duck below the mountains,
we moseyed (being out West, I can safely use the term)
to a late dinner at Café Terigo.
Food,
Ballooning...and Champagne
Park
City is most definitely on par with any other city in
its restaurant offerings. You won't be getting the typical
overpriced (and oftentimes mediocre) resort-area food
while in town, that's for sure. From the laid-back atmosphere
of Cafe Terigo - where you can dine on steak, seafood
or even pizza - to the upscale Westgate Grill at the
Canyons Resort, the food is simply superb.
Another
superb offering in Park City that no visitor (regardless
of the season) should miss is an early morning balloon
ride. It wasn't exactly easy being ready to go at 6
a.m., but my excitement kept me wide-eyed and awake
until we lifted off a little after 7.
And
after that, well, adrenaline took over.
The
most common question I've been asked about the hot air
ballooning experience in Park City is: "Was it
scary?"
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Fueling
up the balloon (top) and one of three balloons dotting
the sky (below) |
|
My
answer: "Absolutely not." Then, I usually
added a bit about a woman in our 10-person basket who
was celebrating her 80th birthday. The employees of
Park City Balloon Adventures helped her climb in and
out of the basket - and she was grinning from ear-to-ear
on each occasion. So, to my friends and relatives, I
said, "If the 80-year-old can do it, so can you.
No excuses."
For
some strange reason, people tend to think that the hot
air ballooning process is bumpy. In actuality, the 30-minute
ride was extremely relaxing. I didn't even know we were
off of the ground until someone mentioned it. We floated
effortlessly in the early morning sunlight, the world
around us so unbelievably quiet; we could even hear
a dog's tags clinking against its collar on the golf
course below.
It
was simply one of the most fabulous experiences I've
ever had. And according to the staff of Park City Balloon
Adventures, it's even more stunning in the winter. I
can't imagine how cold it's got to be up in that basket
on a winter morning, but I would bet money that the
view is easily worth the shivering.
Plus,
the cold might just make the celebratory champagne toast
at the end of the ride all the more enjoyable. (Because,
really, everyone knows you need one hell of a good excuse
to be drinking before 8 in the morning.)
What's
a 120?
 |
Visitors
can experience a bobsled ride, regardless of the
season. |
Remember
how I thought earlier that I wouldn't need to worry
about having any type of ski knowledge? Well, now I
actually have a ski knowledge base after a visit
to Utah's Olympic Park.
From
the road, you can see the long, green ski jumps peeking
out from the side of a mountain - nordic jumping being
just one of the events held at the 389-acre Utah Olympic
Park during the 2002 Winter Games. Bobsled, luge and
skeleton competitions were also held on-site. Now, the
state-of-the-art park is used for national and international
competitions. And any day of the week, you'll find athletes
training - the Australian ski team was apparently hard
at work on premises while we were visiting.
Touring
the facilities is a must, but if you're a hands-on person,
you can actually experience a bobsled ride, regardless
of the season. You'll experience up to four Gs of force
as a professional driver navigates the course's twists
and turns at up to 70 mph.
One
of the coolest things the Olympic Park offers in the
summer is a chance to try out your skills in the 750,000-gallon
freestyle aerials summer training pool. Clad in wetsuits
and skis, children (and adults) are taught the basics
of aerial jumping. Athletes train alongside, using the
longer jumps (or "kickers") to try out new
flips and twists before splashing into the gigantic
pool below. The largest kicker, by the way, can send
an athlete up to 70 feet in the air, making for some
jaw-dropping visuals.
I
was mesmerized. I stood at the railing and watched for
a solid 30 minutes as skiers attempted new techniques
(or nailed down old ones). It never got boring; I would've
been content to camp out at that spot all day, but there
was still more to see.
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The
K120 at Utah Olympic Park. |
We
found more skiers tackling the steep Nordic jumps. The
Nordic hills are the highest-altitude jumps in the world
at an elevation of 7,310 feet above sea level. And perhaps
it's needless to say, but the view is staggering.
We
stood at the top of the K120 and gasped. Those skiers
that attempt this jump, I thought, must be crazy.
That's all there is to it. Just looking at the sharp
drop gave me shivers; I couldn't imagine hurtling my
body down it, strapped only to a pair of skis. And then...trying
to land. I shuddered again and slowly backed away from
the edge. Yikes - and I thought those skeleton sled
drivers were crazy.
Can
I Get a Clone with That?
 |
Rental
condo at Black Bear Lodge |
After
such a close encounter with death (or at least in my
imagination), I decided to head back to my accommodations
at Deer Valley's Black Bear Lodge for a soak in the
hot tub.
Every
time I walked in the door of the rental condominium,
I instantly smiled. The place - all wood, stone, and
leather - was bigger than my apartment. Not to mention
cozier...with much better views. The decor was so spot-on,
so completely Park City, that I was checking around
corners to see if it came stocked with a Robert Redford
clone.
It
didn't. But it did have a large balcony with
a hot tub, which more than made up for the lack of my
own personal Sundance Kid. The condo also had a full
kitchen, a perfect money-saving feature, and a long
dining table that could seat two families. In fact,
the condo can easily accommodate two couples
- and the price tag is even more appealing.
 |
The
K120 at Utah Olympic Park. |
We
found more skiers tackling the steep Nordic jumps. The
Nordic hills are the highest-altitude jumps in the world
at an elevation of 7,310 feet above sea level. And perhaps
it's needless to say, but the view is staggering.
We
stood at the top of the K120 and gasped. Those skiers
that attempt this jump, I thought, must be crazy.
That's all there is to it. Just looking at the sharp
drop gave me shivers; I couldn't imagine hurtling my
body down it, strapped only to a pair of skis. And then...trying
to land. I shuddered again and slowly backed away from
the edge. Yikes - and I thought those skeleton sled
drivers were crazy.
Can
I Get a Clone with That?
 |
Rental
condo at Black Bear Lodge |
After
such a close encounter with death (or at least in my
imagination), I decided to head back to my accommodations
at Deer Valley's Black Bear Lodge for a soak in the
hot tub.
Every
time I walked in the door of the rental condominium,
I instantly smiled. The place - all wood, stone, and
leather - was bigger than my apartment. Not to mention
cozier...with much better views. The decor was so spot-on,
so completely Park City, that I was checking around
corners to see if it came stocked with a Robert Redford
clone.
It
didn't. But it did have a large balcony with
a hot tub, which more than made up for the lack of my
own personal Sundance Kid. The condo also had a full
kitchen, a perfect money-saving feature, and a long
dining table that could seat two families. In fact,
the condo can easily accommodate two couples
- and the price tag is even more appealing.
A
short walk away from the Deer Valley's Silver Lake area,
the location is ideal for summer or winter, although
winter prices are much more steep (my condo normally
goes for a whopping $960 a night during the peak holiday
season). Such a lovely rental property can be booked
through RCI Holiday Network or High Mountain Properties
(more information on both can be found below). Both
companies will gladly work with you to find the perfect
accommodations to suit your needs, whether you're traveling
with two or ten people.
After
being slowly initiated into the world of ski culture
in Park City, I couldn't help but be intrigued. As I
was driving out of the city, on my way to the nearby
Salt Lake City airport, I realized that I was staring
longingly at the green mountains, which would be covered
in a thick white powder in just a few months. And this
strange feeling washed over me while I thought about
possibly hitting the slopes this winter. It wasn't dread...it
was excitement.
Maybe
I could ski after all. I could take lessons and stay
in a cozy condo with a stone fireplace. And I could
start it all in Park City. At least no one will ever
have to worry about me trying to attempt a jump on the
K120. I'll leave that to the truly insane - ahem - I
mean, fearless. (...BACK)
IF
YOU GO... |
Transportation:
The Salt
Lake City Airport is a 30-min.
drive from Park City. Park
City Transportation (800-637-3803)
offers a shuttle service to Park City. All major
car rental companies operate out of the airport,
as well.
Lodging:
The Black
Bear Lodge is located 2 blocks
from Silver Lake Village, mid-mountain at Deer
Valley Resort and on Park City's free shuttle
system (which is clean, well-run and easy to use).
This property features mostly two bedroom units
with underground parking, fully equipped kitchens,
private outdoor hot tubs in some units, jetted
tubs in others, laundry facilities and stone fireplaces.
It also offers a common area outdoor heated pool
and hot tub as well as on-site front desk service.
You can book a rental property in Park City -
great for families and those not big fans of hotel-style
lodging - by contacting High
Mountain Properties. They can personalize
your vacation by booking spa treatments, hot air
balloon rides and ground transportation. (877)
340-1237
RCI
Holiday Network offers consumers
the world's largest and most diverse selection
of holiday rental properties, and operates rental
programs on behalf of resorts, real estate companies
and property management companies around the world.
RCI Holiday Network has a large selection of properties
in Park City. (800) 730-9981
Summer
Activities:
Hot-Air Ballooning - contact Park City
Balloon Adventures, (800) 396-UPUP or www.pcballoonadventures.com.
Guided
Kayaking, Rafting, Fly Fishing, Hiking and Biking - All Seasons Adventures, (435) 649-9619 or www.allseasonadventures.com.
Try their popular Bike and Float adventure - a
full-day package that begins with a scenic 13-mile
bike ride and concludes with a 2-hour rafting
trip on the Weber River (lunch included).
Dining:
Cafe Terigo -
424 Main Street, open 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10,
(435) 645-9555.
Royal Street Cafe - at Deer Valley, open for lunch only,
June through Labor Day, Wednesday - Sunday 11:30
a.m. to 2:30 p.m., (435) 645-6724.
Westgate
Grill - at The Canyons, open daily
7 am - 10 PM, (435) 655-2260.
Find more restaurant options through the Park
City Dining Guide
Utah
Olympic Park:
Offers a number of camps and programs for
kids and adults - A variety of camps exist in
freestyle aerials, ski jumping/Nordic combined,
luge and skeleton for introductory, developmental
and high-performance athletes. Sessions are scheduled
on a one-day, multiple-day and seasonal basis. www.utaholympicpark.com
More information on Park City: parkcityinfo.com |
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