Old and New World Collide in San Luis Obispo
by
Don Weberg
Imagine
a town where the ghosts of Spanish-ruled California, and contemporary
nightlife, trendy stores, and fabulous restaurants intersect.
Located between San Francisco and Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo
is nestled in the mountains of Central California, just minutes
from some of the world's most beautiful coastline.
 |
|
Relax
on the Pacific Ocean drive and let the magic
rejuvenate your overworked minds and bodies. |
Looking
to escape the rigors of Los Angeles, SLO seemed like the perfect
spot for a weekend getaway. Roughly four hours from L.A. up
Highway 1, the Pacific Ocean drive could calm anyone's nerves,
and relax them enough to let the magic of San Luis rejuvenate
overworked, and under appreciated, minds and bodies. Of course,
a super cool car doesn't hurt the journey in the slightest.
Based on the idea that the trip should be fun, elegant, relaxing,
and maybe a little romantic, a convertible was thought of to
best complete the package. Lexus agreed, and offered up an SC430
hardtop convertible for the journey to nirvana.
Westbound
10 out of Los Angeles offers the most exciting entry to the
beach, winding narrowly through Santa Monica, its final urban
stretch leads to a tunnel which curves to the right and dumps
you literally at the beach. The sensation felt at the exit of
the tunnel is subtle, but not unnoticed, mainly because the
scenery differs vastly from that of the surroundings leading
into the tunnel. A feeling of calm and relaxation replaces the
tense nerves brought on by L.A. freeways, and makes one thing
immediately clear: the vacation has begun. Once you're through
the tunnel, the famous Santa Monica pier is over your shoulder,
and light sands and sparkling blue water replace the cityscape
once on your left. Highway 10 has turned into Highway 1. Top
down, wind lightly wisping through your hair, and sun warmly
touching your face, it proves time and time again to be the
perfect way to begin the journey north.
Cruising
through Malibu, hunger set in, and nourishment was
necessary. A little place called Neptune's Net provided
the grub. With a menu based mainly on seafood, the
establishment proved to be friendly to all palates,
offering a wide variety of dishes such as hamburgers,
hot dogs, and other quick vacationy foods. The meal
was delicious and only hit the bank for about $15
for two people.
Back
in the Lexus and zipping through Zuma Beach, the car
gobbled up miles with ease, quickly making up time.
While it's not advisable to drive at higher speeds,
it couldn't be less advisable along the Pacific Coast
Highway. Here, California Highway Patrol and Los Angeles
County Sheriff deputies maintain order in an un-shy
fashion. Because of the SC430's power, it took consistent
speedometer checks to ensure we weren't letting the
car get ahead of us. With such a compliant ride, little
wind interference, and a radio that gets louder as
the atmosphere gets noisier, it's difficult to tell
about how fast the car is going. At one point, 80
felt like 65.
 |
Prehistoric
dwelling of the Cave Man Room at the Madonna Inn |
Highway
1 eventually merges with the 101 in Oxnard, but it doesn't mean
the fun journey is over. It means only a faster pace, and scenery
rotating between ocean vistas and plains leading to distant
hills. Entering San Luis, it's impossible to miss the famed
Madonna Inn. Eclectically designed, each room offers guests
a unique experience, for no one room's theme is like the next.
Visiting the Inn, it was impossible to photograph the rooms.
However, it was explained that rooms such as the Cave Man Room
are decorated inside (and out, for that matter) to appear as
a prehistoric dwelling. There is also a Jungle Rocks room which
is similar to the Cave Man, but with a greener theme behind
it. The list goes on and on to satisfy the desires of many guests.
Exiting
Marsh St. off the 101 puts you in the middle of downtown San
Luis Obispo. Here, a conglomeration of small and mid-sized boutiques
merge to make as eclectic a shopping experience as the Madonna
would prescribe. Parking the Lexus in one of the many public
lots and walking the streets introduced the shops more intimately,
as well as allowing access to human-only alleyways which offer
a charmingly exciting experience. Some only led to the next
parallel street, while others hid tiny stores, one of which
specialized in various healing potions and lotions, candles,
plants, and basically everything one would need to rejuvenate.
Another featured all the tobacco products one could possibly
need.
Nearing
dinnertime, a restaurant at the edge of town, called
the 1865, was recommended. Slightly pricey, the menu
enticed visitors with a worldly assortment of fish,
beef, chicken, salads, and Italian dishes. The idea
was obvious, to offer something for everyone. Despite
the higher cost of admission, the coin was well worth
it. The food, service, and atmosphere proved to be
beyond compare. A comfortable restaurant, The 1865
has a ski lodge feel to it, made of dark woods with
beamed ceilings and lots of glass, but without compromising
a feeling of privacy. A fabulous bar lends itself
to an outdoor patio complete with massive fire pit,
perfect for winding down after a day of shopping.
Just
up the road from The 1865 is one of those bits of
history that SLO is known for, the world's first motel.
Sitting just off the 101, it's easy to miss, and looks
similar to a mission. Although It's been abandoned
for some time now, efforts are in place to bring the
motel back to its original self, which is sure to
be a slow process.
 |
The rock at Morro
Bay is a rather awesome sight, providing a romantic,
backdrop for the charming town. |
The
following day it was time to head over to Morro Bay, a tiny
seaside village whose claim to fame is a rock. The rock, a rather
awesome sight, juts out of the ocean just off the shore and
provides an excellent and somehow romantic backdrop for the
charming town. A flurry of family owned restaurants make it
very easy to overeat visiting this town, but it is built on
a bit of a hill; so working off the meals comes naturally.
Heading
north on Highway 1 put us on course for Cambria and Hearst Castle.
Cambria, another tiny village offering many shopping opportunities
and eating ideas, is one of the quaintest towns imaginable.
Straddling the highway, Cambria has a north and south end of
town, each with unique antique stores, coffee houses and shops.
Continuing on 1 to the gateway of Big Sur, high on the hills
sits one of America's largest homes, Hearst Castle. Any trip
to this area would be incomplete without a visit to the castle.
Built
by newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst, the castle boasts
some of the best views of the Central Coast, and glimpses of
some of the finest furnishings, architecture and art anywhere
in the world. A lengthy bus ride up a twisty hill from the gift
shop, theater and history center puts you at the doorstep of
the castle where guides take you on a very controlled but comfortable
walking tour of the massive home. The word eclectic simply doesn't
do the castle justice. Designed by Julia Morgan, the castle
took shape through the ideas of Hearst and the imagination of
Morgan. The project was so great, that it was actually never
completed. Hearst began collecting art and artifacts from around
the world long before he began the construction of his dream.
As the dream formed into a tangible home, the collectibles began
decorating it. Tables, chairs, and tapestries from European
churches abound, while Egyptian and European statues look over
the grounds outside. The castle seems to go on and on forever,
and who would ever want it to stop?
Stopping
at the Ragged Point Inn on our way back from the castle
for a cup of coffee and a look-see proved to be one
of those nuggets of beauty the Central Coast is known
for. The Ragged Point Inn offers one of the finest
views of Big Sur from high above the ocean. If serenity
can be found anywhere, it's in this area.
Back
in SLO, it was time to tour some of the back roads
of the region, something the Lexus was born to do.
It turned out to be one of the best parts of the trip
as well, discovering a couple of wineries, a bakery
which used to be a barn, and some coastal regions
that are unsurpassed in their beauty and natural wonder.
It became obvious that traveling to this region on
a discovery tour is impossible to do in just one weekend.
It would take at least a month to discover everything
the Central Coast has to offer, and it's still not
a sure bet that all would be seen. The roads intertwine
with other trails and roads, each one offering another
section of beauty all its own. It leads one to believe
that it is important to take the time to take a breath
and a look around.
Understanding
from time to time that people get lost, the Lexus' on-board
navigation center made it all ok. Just plug in, tell it where
you want to go, and without a hitch, it guides you on how to
get there. The only shortcoming is that if it directs one way,
and the driver goes the other, the Lex doesn't seem inclined
to redirect. A little odd, and perhaps driver error, but nonetheless
the nav was fun in locating restaurants, spas, wineries, and
other interesting places.
San
Luis Obispo, and the region in which it calls home,
is well worth a minimum of a couple days' visit. There
is a natural feeling in the air and in the attitude
of most of the people in the area that puts minds
at ease, encourages relaxation, and educates on the
merits of taking time out. Rewarding the soul for
doing so. (...BACK)
|
