by Mary Ann Anderson

Discover the Historical French Countryside in Provence

The ochre cliffs and quarries surrounding the village of Roussillon in Provence are smeared with all the colors of a fiery inferno: burnt orange, blazing yellow, searing gold, and most notably, a flaming red that is so rich and dark that it seems steeped in blood. And from these fabled colors sprang a legend in this small French countryside village.

No one can say when the story took place, maybe the Dark Ages or even during the Renaissance, but it is told like this:

Raymond d'Avignon, the lord of Roussillon, was married to Lady Sermond, perhaps the prettiest women in the village. While Lord D'Avignon loved his wife, he was passionate about hunting, which took him away from home for lengthy periods of time.

Lady Sermond was often lonely, so she began an affair with a man named Guillaume de Cabestan. When Lord d'Avignon returned from one of his hunting trips, he learned of Sermond and Guillaume's trysts. Although d'Avignon was seething with rage at Sermond's indiscre-tions, he befriended Guillaume, but only as a ruse to invite him on a hunt, where in a jealous rage, he killed his wife's lover.

When Lord d'Avignon went back to his mountaintop castle that evening, he prepared a special meal for Sermond. When she finished her dinner, she told her husband that it was the most scrumptious meal that she had ever eaten, and she pressed him to tell her what kind of meat he had served.

Lord d'Avignon savored the moment before cruelly replying, "You have just eaten the heart of your lover, Guillaume."

So completely distraught and hysterical was Sermond that she rushed to the edge of the mountain and threw herself to her death on the jagged rocks below. And now, legend holds, it is her blood that stains the earth red in these ochre cliffs of Roussillon.

Whether or not this ultimate crime of passion is true, it is romantic enough for the cliffs to remain one of the most popular tourist spots in the entire Provence region of France.

Along with those cliffs, the wildly beautiful Provence is a naturally orchestrated symphony of color with its endless vineyards laden with fruit (it is the oldest wine-growing region in France and is especially known for rosé), hilltop villages awash in the golden glow of sunshine, cherry and olive orchards thick with blossoms and fruit, long avenues shaded by plane trees (like our birch), and plentiful acres of fragrant lavender fields.

Even Provence's light is extraordinary, as artist Van Gogh used Provence's clean, clear skies as a backdrop to happily paint his irises, sunflowers, and starry nights. Cézanne, too, was inspired by its nature, landscapes, and people.

Ancient stones have shaped its architecture, from its medieval castles to its bridges to its monasteries. Stone walls even line the winding roads of the region, giving you a sense that you have stepped back in history to the Middle Ages and the time of knights and maidens, dragons and drawbridges, and jousting and feasting.

But the truly stunning Provence is sometimes forgotten as a destination because the whole of France, and especially Paris, has the image that it is priced out of reach for most travelers. While Paris can be ridiculously expensive, one of the best things about visiting Provence is that it can actually be quite affordable. Let's just call it luxury at low cost.

The average rate that you can expect to pay for a room in Provence is around $70 to $100. Bed-and-breakfast rates run about $10 to $12 more. Consider that Paris room rates typically run $400 to $500 per night, with some going for over $1000.

The Auberge de Carcarille is one fine example of Provence's affordable inns. Roosters greet the mornings of this country inn located in the village of Gordes. Everything about it is bright and cheery, from its cozy rooms to its world-class restaurant. Yet another inexpensive inn is the Le Vallon de Gayet in Mouries, a charming three-star property containing all the elements of a country inn, including a warm, friendly bar, an inviting ambiance, and a full restaurant complete with a crackling fireplace. The Le Relais Sainte Victoire near Aix-en-Provence is another three-star hotel located at the base of the mountain made famous by Cézanne. No two rooms are alike at this inn surrounded by flowers, flowers, and more flowers.

Besides the taking in the incredible scenery, discovering its dramatic history, listening to its heartrending fables, and sampling the myriad inns and restaurants, there is plenty to do in Provence. Naturally, you'll want to explore all of the wonderful villages of Provence, but make time to see other sites like La Ferme de Gerbaud in Lourmarin, a farm specializing in the magical healing powers of aromatic plants, including rosemary, sage, and basil. If decorating with tiles strikes your fancy, Carreaux Vernin is a showplace of vibrantly-hued artisan tile and terra cotta pieces, all handcrafted with love and care. Your next stop might be the Confiserie Saint Denis in Les Beaumettes, specialists in delectable sugar-preserved fruits.

Lady Sermond's blood spilled far across Provence, so while you're in the Roussillon region visit the Conservatory of Ochre and Applied Pigments, an ancient factory that focuses on the history of ochre. While in Roussillon, dine at the Restaurant David, which offers breathtaking views of the ochre cliffs, not to mention specialty dishes that include lamb and veal.

An absolute must-see is the Lavender Museum in Coustellet. From the moment you step through the front door, you're immersed in the scent of lavender, which has become the symbol of Provence. Lavender's history runs deep in these terraced hillsides covered with the amethyst-colored flowers, and the museum presents the perfect opportunity to learn everything about it.

After a relaxing lunch at the outdoor café of Auberge de la Reine Jeanne in Saint-Remy de Provence, where a few friendly kitty cats roam, visit the archaeological ruins of Glanum, then it's on to Les Baux de Provence to learn about the fascinating process of growing olives and pressing olive oil at the Castelas olive oil mill. If your tastes run more toward chocolate, then drop in at the Chocolaterie Puyricard in Puyricard, a place that dazzles with the art of candymaking.

In its complete essence, Provence stirs the soul with an unseen energy, evoking images of romance and tranquility. Just in the shadows of the "Little Alps," it is one of the last remaining places on earth that is truly pristine. While its beauty is at first stunning, you realize that if you close your eyes it's really not going to go away, that it's not a product of your imagination. So take your time, envelope yourself in it, even get lost in it, and experience it slowly and purely, the way it is supposed to be.