Stay at the Only Island Resort in Florida

words and photos by Rachel L. Miller

The view from our villa's screened-in porch

The first line of defense against stress and worry at Palm Island Resort are their 154 villas, all with stunning views of the Gulf of Mexico's gleaming turquoise waters. During my three-day visit, one of my greatest delights was reading a book cover-to-cover while reclining in a comfy chair in our screened-in porch (all villas have one). Sure, May in southwest Florida is hot (think 90 degrees plus humidity), but sheltered from the sun's rays on the porch, I was extremely comfortable, especially not having to worry about burning my fair skin. In addition, the spacious porch allowed me to lounge in my bathing suit and enjoy the salty breezes blowing in off the water, all while retaining my privacy.

The interior of our one-bedroom villa was clean, spacious, light and airy. Not only did it feel like a home, it had all the amenities of one, from pots and pans to a stove, from a washer and dryer to cupboards full of cooking utensils and dishes. It was heavenly, especially when I, sunburned and tired, crashed for an hour-long nap on the king-sized bed. Heavenly, indeed.

There are no stuffy cookie-cutter hotel rooms at Palm Island Resort. Visitors here rent either a one-,two-, or three-bedroom villa, the latter being perfect for multiple couples (or families) to share. Villas are all privately owned and rented out through the resort, so each one is charmingly unique through its decoration and furniture.

The next relaxation-enhancer we (my mother and I) discovered at the resort was the beach, a secluded, private two-mile long paradise. There were only a few other people strolling along the seashell-dotted white sand in the early morning hours, making for a peaceful beginning to our day. I was amazed at the clarity and warmth of the water -- I was later told the temperature was about a balmy 82 degrees.

"I could live like this," my mother commented with a grin as we continued our morning walk, stopping occasionally to pick up a colorful seashell. The warm breeze off the water tickled my face and I found myself smiling. "Yeah," I said, squinting into the sun. "I think I could too."

We laughed and kept walking, our bare feet sinking into the wet, toasty sand.

The next morning we took in the sunrise on the other side of the island facing Back Bay, on the resort's dock. Sitting on wooden benches, we kept our eyes open for manatees, which are said to frequent the area, but we didn't even see the slightest ripple on the still water. The squawk of birds and two tiny crabs scurrying across the dock's wood planks were our only company.

Palm Island is home to many animals, from osprey to bald eagles, turtles to bobcats. In fact, loggerhead sea turtles were just starting to nest on the beach during our visit. Starting in mid-June the resort begins their twice-weekly Turtle Walks, during which guests comb the beaches in the early morning hours, searching for turtle nests. The nests are marked and monitored so they are not disturbed.

Other eco-tourism adventures can be found at the resort, including canoeing and kayaking. The Intracoastal Waterway mangroves serve as the launching area for kayaks and canoes (which you can rent at the island), a fun and easy way to spot birds, fish and even manatees.

A guided eco-tour is only a ferry ride away (since there are no bridges or causeways to Palm Island, the only way mode of access is by car ferry). Capt. Marian E. Schneider's Grande Tours, located on the mainland, offers regularly scheduled sea life excursions and guided kayak eco-tours.

Back on the island, we spent most of our day rotating from beach to pool to screened-in porch and back to the beach. Swimming in the Gulf of Mexico isn't much different from swimming from the Atlantic Ocean except the water is much warmer, clearer and appears more vibrant in color. I felt like a child again, splashing in the waves, waiting for the next big white-tipped one to carry me to shore. Rafts, boogie boards and snorkel sets can be rented at the resort, making for a carefree day at the beach for families.

Families also flock to the resort's four heated swimming pools and Hydra Spas, but the pools never seemed crowded to me. One afternoon, I had the whole deep end to myself as a few families paddled around in the shallow end, children squealing and playing in delight.

One young boy proudly displayed his aquatic skills to his father by swimming down to the deep end, touching the wall and calling out proudly, "Dad, look! Look! I made it here all by myself!"

If he didn't stop gabbing, he was going to swallow twelve gallons of pool water. His grin was magnificent, missing baby teeth and all.

I smiled for him. I remembered doing the exact same thing as a child.

Red Beard spins the tale of "Bezelbub the Shark"

I saw his gapped-tooth grin again later that night as the resident "pirate," a musician now called Red Beard, took the stage for his musical storytelling hour. Children crowded around as Red Beard (yes, he does sport flaming red facial hair) burst into song, telling stories of pirates and plunder, weaving in facets of life on the beach (manatees and osprey are mentioned in lyrics). Children sang along, their wide eyes following the pirate as he moved along the stage in front of his Tiki Hut.

A gifted entertainer, Red Beard used humor to bring adults into his performance. I know I laughed out loud quite a few times, as did my mother.

Red Beard also does "Pirate Jewelry Making" with kids during the day, teaching them to put together bracelets and necklaces out of shark's teeth, sterling silver and other materials.

Palm Island Resort caters to families, so rest assured there are plenty of activities to keep children busy. Monday through Saturday from 10:30 a.m. - 3 p.m., children from 5-12 years old can take part in the Island Kids Club, which offers something fun and different every day, from tennis lessons to nature walks. There's a daily fee of $25, which includes supplies, lunch and all theme programs.

Rum Bay Restaurant. Photo courtesy of Palm Island Resort

When it comes time to refuel, I'd recommend utilizing the villa's kitchen for snacks and some meals. Just remember to stop at the grocery store before heading on to the island -- although the resort has a small general store, it's expensive and has little selection. The resort's eatery, Rum Bay, is not something any visitor should miss. The food, from sandwich wraps to steak to seafood specialties, is delicious and reasonably priced.

My favorite was the coconut shrimp with an appetizer of conch fritters, which we could just not get enough of.

Those crunchy seafood snacks were lightly fried, perfectly seasoned with Jamaican spices and were downright intoxicating. Also of note is the house specialty, the Famous Danish Baby Back Ribs, which are brushed with the restaurant's own "swamp sauce" (don't be scared, it's just a sweet, tasty BBQ sauce). Be sure to ask for the chef's famous "sunset rice," a Rum Bay favorite made with aromatic jasmine rice.

Eat to your heart's content -- there are a number of ways to burn off the calories earned by a good lunch or dinner at Rum Bay. Eleven hard tennis courts and six nearby golf courses await resort guests. Renting a bike for a leisurely ride around the resort is always an option, as is fishing or playing a game of beach volleyball.

But remember to take time to just relax, take in the gorgeous flowers scattered around the resort, view a breathtaking sunset and enjoy living a few days on laid-back "island time."

I did.

And I returned home refreshed, sun-kissed and rejuvenated.

And also wondering where in Detroit I could find conch fritters as spectacular as those I devoured at Palm Island Resort.

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