Sail into the sunset in the St. Kitts & Nevis

By Tom Wuckovich

I was awakened by a light tapping on the hull of my Moorings 51 sailboat, which was anchored about 100 yards from the toffee colored sand of Pinney's Beach, on the western shore of Nevis. I rose slightly on my bunk, and resting on my elbows, peered out of the starboard porthole into the emerging Caribbean dawn. I couldn't see a soul, but moments later the tapping began anew.

I slid my feet over the side of the bed and went into the salon and up the ladder to the deck. There, in a customary red, green and yellow wooden longboat, were three locals grasping the top rail of my yacht and being careful not to let their craft brush against the gleaming white finish of the Beneteau 51.

Workers on the beach repairing boats

"Good mornin' mon," the taller of the three said, flashing a broad smile. "You doin' fine?" I nodded, still trying to shake the cobwebs from my brain.

"We hates to disturb ya, but could you move da boat sa we can haul in da fish net."

I looked around, and about 50 feet or so from the stern and bow there was a heavy hemp rope with a submerged net attached, and strung between two more longboats which were poised to motor toward the beach-where I think half the population of Charlestown was waiting to help pull in the catch.

"No problem," I said. "Just let me get the anchor up and I'll get out of your way."

"Preeciates it, mon," he said as he pushed off and went to join the other boats.

I roused two of my friends who had been sleeping below and explained the situation. Within a few minutes, we had raised the hook and moved out of the way. Then we sat in the cockpit of the yacht and watched the age-old ritual of hauling in the fish net. This communal enterprise is one of the fascinations of visiting the Caribbean islands, where life is pretty simple most of the time, and for a few days or a week, can teach you the finer points of "winding down."

Nevis, and its larger sister island of St. Kitts are perfect examples of the "true" Caribbean character. Unhurried, quaint, friendly, beautiful, lush and uncomplicated. You can find this paradise midway down the Leeward chain, which stretches from St. Maarten/St. Martin south to Guadeloupe. It's a favorite cruising ground for boats of all sizes and cruise ships, which often leave for the Leewards from San Juan. St. Kitts and Nevis are still favored by smaller vessels, like Windstar, but more and more cruise lines, such as Princess and Holland America, have come calling. And when St. Kitts and Nevis finished construction of their deep-water port, the cruise ships are calling more frequently. In time, they will be mentioned in the same breath as St. Thomas and St. Maarten.

Picturesque downtown St. Kitts

St. Kitts is almost twice the size of Nevis (68 square miles versus 36), but both are of volcanic origin, with St. Kitts' three mountain ranges converging into Mount Liamuiga, nearly 4,000 feet above sea level. Nevis Peak, its crown seemingly always shrouded by a white collar of clouds, is a few hundred feet smaller, but no less dramatic. These ranges are surrounded by dense rainforests that are flush with monkeys, tropical birds and abundant plant life. The stunning scenery on each island is complemented by the crystalline sea, which hugs their sometime rugged coastline. These waters are a snorkeling and diving heaven, dotted with reefs, shipwrecks and underwater nurseries that harbor fish and mollusks of every size and description. While these two islands resemble each other in topography and temperament, there are differences. With the aid of the local ferry service, you can partake of the best of both.

St. Kitts' shore side activities are concentrated in the capital of Basseterre, where colonial buildings surround Independence Square, dominated by a replica of "Big Ben," the clock in London's Trafalgar Square. There are shops around the square, restaurants, a marina and duty-free stores that will emerge once the port is finished. If you plan to stay a few days, there are hotels, inns and resorts that are as different as the vegetation. Among the more heralded are Frigate Bay Resort, Golden Lemon Inn and Villas and Otley's Plantation.

But if you're staying on island or only visiting briefly, there are certain sights not to be missed. At the top of the list is Brimstone Hill fortress, one of the most formidable and dramatic structures in all the Caribbean.

As you approach this citadel at the north end of the island, the smell of sulfur is evident-escaping from a vent on the shoreline. But this World Heritage Site can be seen from miles away. Built by the British in 1690, it covers 38 acres and affords a panoramic view of over 70 miles. On a clear day (and there are many) the islands of Anguilla, Montserrat, Saba, Statia, St. Barth's and St. Maarten can be seen in the distance. The fort is just off the main road, which circles all of St. Kitts and is only 32 miles long, so an island tour is easily done in a few hours.

Cannon at Fort Skitts

In neighboring Nevis, life is a tad more sedated. The capital of Charlestown is small in comparison to Basseterre, with charming buildings that give it an 18th-century flavor. There are other historic structures-weathered sugar factories and windmills, the remains of forts and beautifully restored plantation inns, all adding to its glamour and prompting some to call Nevis the "Queen of the Caribees." At Fothergills, on land bought by the government, an authentic 19th-century Nevisian community is being re-created and will be a living example of the days following the emancipation of the slaves. Many visitors come to Nevis because it's quiet, authentic and because they can easily experience a past that is meticulously preserved.

There is some new mixed in with the old, and that includes the Four Seasons Resort, one of only a handful of AAA 4-Diamond resorts in the Caribbean. Situated on famed Pinney's Beach, the Four Seasons, while upscale and offering a wide variety of vacation facilities, nevertheless blends nicely into its environment. While guests can swim in a pool with a beach view, play golf at the 18-hole Robert Trent Jones II golf course, snorkel or scuba dive in nearby coves, just a scant 50 yards away, townspeople are pulling in the day's catch-some of which will be served fresh in one of the resort's three restaurants.

You gotta love it, 'mon!