Enjoy a Wine Country Vacation in Temecula Valley

by Susan Van Allen

Laundry was spilling out of the hamper and my desk was sagging under a pile of work to be done. I knew it was naughty to pack up a suitcase and run away, but a gal's gotta take a break every once in a while, right? Besides, I was only going an hour's drive south of my home in Los Angeles, to the peaceful Temecula Valley.

The plan was to meet up with other gals who needed a getaway as much as I did. We'd unwind for a couple of days in a country setting, get pampered, enjoy the great outdoors, antique shopping, gourmet food, and wine tastings.

The area got its name from the Luseno tribe of Native Americans who 300 years ago lived in this fertile valley tucked under the San Jacinto mountains and called it Temecula - or "Sun Shining Through the Sea Mist." As I drove through the entrance of the Temecula Creek Inn, the sun was shining but there was no mist in sight. Rose bushes with bright yellow, orange, and pink blooms provided a cheerful welcome to the 350-acre beautifully manicured property. The inn is well known for its award-winning 27-hole golf course, which mattered not to most of my non-golfing traveling pals -- though the sight of handsome pros and muscular men taking impressive swings did enhance the scenery.

My in-room Swedish massage was the perfect way to slip into bliss after the drive. As I got the stress rubbed out, I listened to the waterfall that ran beneath my window on the Player's Plaza - a stone patio at the border of the golf course where western steak fries and other group events take place. On the night I arrived, a margarita welcome party was set up for us there. The backdrop of the sun setting over the mountains, throwing soft shadows across the golf course dotted with California oaks, sycamores, eucalyptus and stone pines, put us all in the mood to relax and enjoy what was to come.

Since we were all multi-tasking working gals, we'd each made plans for how we'd spend our relaxing time. While some chose nature hikes, tennis, swimming or golf lessons at the inn, I headed off with a few others our first morning for an exploration of the nearby town of Rainbow (pop. 1500) by bike. Winding roads took us past small farms and nurseries, and then to Rainbow Oaks Country Square.

There, next to an old western style coffee shop, gas station and general store was an antique shopper's dream: The Silverado Trading Post. Owners Jeff and Candy Mack have set up an impressive 1-1/2 acres - from a lawn display of everything from old farm wagons to what they call "Architectural salvage" (European iron gates, barn doors, old fountains) to the inside store, a charming ranch home stuffed with antique kitchen supplies, candlesticks, and furnishings. It was one of those times where I was glad my husband wasn't along, as I could take my time browsing guilt-free. Though he would have been impressed that this is the spot that supplies lots of props for one of his favorite HBO shows, "Deadwood."

On another afternoon, all of us headed up to the hills of Rainbow to visit the Rusty Acres Herb Farm - a terraced paradise that is home to 140 different varieties of lavender. Owners Jim and Judy Brady offer guests tours of their gardens, along with a gift shop where homemade potpourri, herbal infused lotions, oils, and soaps are for sale. For those who want to hang out and admire the 9 peaceful acres, Judy offers a Provencal style lunch on their porch overlooking the farm.

A five minute drive from our accommodations was Old town Temecula, which seemed like a metropolis compared to Rainbow. Formerly a stagecoach stop, the six block stretch brings back the flavor of the golden west. It was fun to stroll along the wooden boardwalks from 1882, which open up to a range of intriguing choices: from antique stores to a magic trick shop, cowboy style saloons and an English tea parlor. I bought souvenirs at the Temecula Olive Oil Company, which offered varieties of local extra virgin oils along with artisanal foods from the area and specialty cookware from around the world.

Usually when I think of California Wine Country, Napa, Sonoma or the Central Coast comes to mind. We were all pleasantly surprised to discover that Temecula Valley, with its warm dry days, cool nights, and ocean breezes is now home to 3000 acres of vineyards and 20 wineries that produce award winning wines. We explored the vineyards via the Grapeline Wine Country Shuttle - a van which customized our tour to stop at four of the area's top wineries.

After savory tastings of peachy Viognier and spicy Petite Syrah at Keyways Winery we settled in to a picnic lunch. As it was August, just a few weeks before harvest, our view was picture-perfect: deep purple and golden grape clusters weighing down the surrounding hillside vines. At Leonese Cellars, a European country style complex, we got treated to Pinot Grigio straight from an outside barrel and a taste of their outstanding Cinsault Port which paired perfectly with chocolate truffles.

I loved meeting the vibrant, glamorous Susan Marshall, co-owner of Stuart Cellars, who poured out their award-winning Tatria - a deep spicy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. At our final stop, Mount Palomar, we sampled Italian style wines - tasty, rich blends produced from acres of imported Italian grapevines. I couldn't resist buying a bottle of their Solera Cream sherry - with its toasty sweet flavor, it made a perfect after dinner drink months later at my Thanksgiving dinner.

Thankfully, we had time in between our wanderings to relax in the comfortable Temecula Creek Inn rooms. I wound down with a pre-dinner bubble bath in the spacious bathroom, complete with Aveda amenities. One early morning I got a welcome stretch of solitude on my balcony - in perfect silence watching the sun rise over the mountains as hot air balloons floated by.

We couldn't help over-indulging in the inn's gourmet food, overseen by Executive chef Salvatore Giuliano, an East coast Italian American who focuses on creating upscale country cuisine, featuring fresh local ingredients. Our most memorable meal took place the last night of our stay at the Inn's Stonehouse - a 180 year old structure which formerly served as the mess hall for the nearby quarry workers. Now it's a charming, cozy dining room, candle-lit with rustic wood-beamed ceilings.

As we savored every bite of Chef Guiliano's four course meal - from a perfectly tender beef filet to a rich chocolate masterpiece of a desert -- local winemakers Loretta and Ray Falkner joined in to tell us their story of buying a nearby winery and bringing what they'd learned from their travels in Italy to create award-winning vintages. "Our philosophy is a bottle of wine is what you need to drink on a daily basis," Loretta told us as she poured outstanding glasses of their Sauvignon blanc, Semillion, and (my favorite) their 2002 Cabernet.

The room was full of the sound of glasses clinking and lots of laughter. And from the looks of all of us relaxed, happy women in the glow of the candlelight, it was clear the getaway had worked its magic. Work weary city gals had been refreshed by slowing down and taking time to enjoy simple good things: good scenery, good shopping, good food, good wine, and good company.