Take a Quaint and Breezy Trip to Monterey, California

by Don Weberg

There is a magic to Monterey. Be it the cool ocean breezes gently blowing the fog off the coastline during the early morning or the warm sun burning off the overcast sky during the later parts of the afternoon allowing people to shed their coats in favor of lighter apparel, a sense is always in the air that things are just better in Monterey. The sense is from more than just weather, it's in mom-ents that, as a whole, make a day. A dozen or so little moments of clarity in a world of chaos make Monterey the town that it is.

Monterey is still a small town, despite a growing traffic concern over the past decade, basically a quaint, seaside village similar to the likes seen in certain Alfred Hitchcock or John Carpenter films. Without all the sci-fi scary stuff, and only a touch of eeriness usually associated to the overcast skies, fog, and slower pace than the big cities. Often, Monterey has been referred to as a mini San Francisco, with it's intertwining maze of downtown streets, historic buildings marking original settlements, and fisherman's wharf where clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl is a must have. The streets lining the business district are home to a gaggle of interesting, very personable proprietors vending jewelry, coffee, food, cooking utensils, camera gear, and personal services such as travel and legal help. With its lack of overtly bustling streets, Monterey is a trip back in time, with only the occasional Starbucks sighting reminding you that it's the New Millenium.

There are so many places to see in Monterey that a trip there can be a hassle of decisions. The trick is to plan accordingly, or, not plan at all. The former style will ensure a great trip, while the latter is certain to lend a hundred surprises. Whichever style you pre-scribe to, there are some places that you must check out.

The town is packed with restaurants, each one offering some kind of unique all its own. There are British pubs, California cafes, French-inspired coffee houses, and everything in between to satisfy not only the palate, but the senses. In particular, two cafes stood out on this trip, Francisco's Restaurant and Rosine's. Both places offer magnificent food, good prices, and tremendous service, but each has a distinct attitude. Francisco's atmosphere is that of a chic bistro with a slight Southwestern flair merging with an Asian influence. The back wall is made of glass allowing for a view of a visually enchanting zenish water garden complete with bronze sun and seemingly exotic plants. The overall effect is something from an Edward Hopper painting, a feeling of being very alone despite the possibility of being surrounded by staff and other guests. It's romantic and a definite spot to unwind with a special someone. The menu is as eclectic as the ambiance, serving teriyaki chicken, Monterey snapper, linguini marinara, English fish and chips, enchiladas, salads, and burgers.

While Francisco's will offer you a very unique experience, Rosine's provides a more French-American atmosphere with highly decorated walls, painted pink and white, art and flowers everywhere and a feeling of being surrounded. Like Cheers, everybody knows your name. Above, ceiling fans lightly swirl the air keeping a fresh feeling, and friendly staff members keep drinks full and even share a joke or two with the guests. The menu is nearly as broad as Francisco's but a touch more California cuisine with a heavier influence in the salad department. But their real specialty is the dessert case. Just looking at their massive glass display of cakes, éclairs, mousses, and pies is enough to swear off weight loss plans for life.

Either one will satisfy, and both are highly recommended. When you're done with your eats, a stroll through town will work off the food, stretch the muscles, and allow for some coffee at one of the many java huts.

One of the highlights of the trip was a wrong turn that led us to the little neighboring town of Pacific Grove. Complete with a main street fit for a parade or casting in the Andy Griffith Show, PG is as historical as Monterey but not quite as well publicized. In the shadow of its popular neighboring town, Pacific Grove enjoys a clock that seems to run behind everyone else, and no on in town minds. The people are as friendly as the town looks, and the shops and restaurants as plentiful. PG is more of a proper beach town, whereas Monterey is a fishing village, giving a distinction between the two, but they offer a charm unmatched by most towns.

One certain highlight was discovering Point Pinos Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse on the West Coast. It first began operating February 1, 1855, piercing the thick coastal fog with a beam of light helping ships find their way. Today, of course, technology has all but eclipsed lighthouses, but the romance of their history is stunning. While visiting the lighthouse, one of the original keepers from the 1950's was on hand to tell stories and explain how things used to be. In the claustrophobic basement of the house, an original Fresnel Lens on display gave a close up of how beautiful the light source actually is. A mathematical wonder by design, and an amazing piece of functional art engineered to literally thrust light hundreds of yards from shore, the Lens looks more like a massive crystal than anything else. While easy to stare at, it's technology from the past, rarely used anymore, replaced by less amazing advances that do the same job for less money.

A visit to Monterey should entail a trip to Cannery Row. What used to be a major fish canning area is now home to historically significant buildings and tourist trap shops aplenty. At the end of the Row is the famed Monterey Bay Aquarium, home to more marine life and education than a textbook and a whole bunch more fun. Cannery Row at one time saw more fish canning than San Francisco, and was responsible for importing nearly as much. Back in the days, large canning companies would provide small houses for the hard working men and women who staffed the canneries, clapboard, pitch-roofed small homes, a few of them are still standing for historical purposes. Some locals say that on a quiet night, late by the clock, you can hear in the wind the sounds of ship bells, and workers in the various buildings. True or legend, being there does lend an eerie sense of being extremely close to another time.

During this trip, the best part was taking time. Not rushing anything, waking up in the motel on Abrego Street and getting out and hitting some coffee huts, going through a few shops, driving to another set, and then heading back for a lunch downtown. After that, the motel beckoned for a nap, which was well heeded to. Recharged and regrouped, we headed out again and found new things all over. As a natural born shutterbug, the camera rarely got lens cap time, pointing at the many boats and streets and even the people to collect the images of Monterey and capture the Monterey moments.

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