Stay in Chateau Style in Sonoma Wine Country

Every couple has their traveling style. After 15 years of marriage, ours has developed into Jon drives, I navigate. When we reach our arrival point, I'm inspired to drop the bags, get out the guidebook and go explore while he flops on the bed and I contemplate wringing his neck, or at the very least pulling him up with "Did we come this far to hang out in the room?" But last November, when we arrived at the Les Mars Hotel in Healdsburg, things were different. It was the inn's old world comfortable graciousness, which immediately set a romantic, relaxed tone to our Sonoma Valley wine country vacation.

The central temptation in our spacious arched-ceilinged room was an elegantly draped four poster canopy king-size bed, featuring oversized pillows, fluffy coverlet and fine white linens. It faced a marble gas-lit fireplace, topped by curvy sconces with gently flickering bulbs. French windows with filmy drapes let in rosy-golden northern California afternoon light that shone on a sitting area - a pale gold chaise with a soft ivory blanket at the foot of it, a round table adorned with a vase of white oleander by its side. Set in the corner was an impressive 18th century antique armoire which opened to a TV and CD player from which romantic French jazz played.

Of course I had to check out the bathroom - done up in travertine with a large whirlpool tub, walk-in shower, ornate vanity, Bulgari amenities, and thick terry robes. And back in our room was that marble table with a silver tray offering a complimentary bottle of wine. It was no contest. Yes, we'd settle in to this dream of a spot for… who knows how long? All I did know was that our Les Mars experience was surely going to be a dreamy stay.

Opened in spring of 2005, the 3 story replica of an 18th century French Chateau is the fantasy come true of the Les Mars family. Frederic Mars, 67, worked and traveled in Europe for 40 years and wanted to recreate for Americans the atmosphere he enjoyed while staying at family run inns in on the continent. His wife Sara, who has a background in couture and commercial design, along with their two daughters and son-in-law (who also have traveled and studied extensively abroad) joined in on the venture. Les Mars has become the successful result of their combined passions and experiences - from the antique furniture and fabrics which they hand picked, to the hotel's logo, designed by daughter Gretchen.

They brought in San Francisco designer Helga Horner, whose previous projects include consultation on the Ann Getty House Collection, to bring their vision to life. Horner's philosophy is "A room is not a good room unless it has an old piece of furniture and an old book in it." Each of the 16 guest accommodations, lobby, and library in Les Mars contain at least one or two 18th or 19th century European antiques, along with fine reproductions. Custom-made pastel fabrics, with subtle gingham or floral patterns used on the canopy beds, draperies, and upholstery (and that even line each drawer), give an ethereal, yet warm texture to the surroundings.

The service staff completes the image Sara Mars insisted on: that patrons should feel more like visiting friends than "quests." The moment we met general manager, Phillipa Perry, who formerly worked at Napa's critically acclaimed Auberge de Soleil, we felt in good hands. Perry exudes sophistication, along with a boundless enthusiasm and knowledge for the property and area.

When we asked her for help planning our exploration of nearby wineries (there are 60 within a 10 minute drive), she produced three easy to follow maps and suggested we try out the Westside Road route, which winds through the Russian River Valley. It was a sublime drive at the peak of fall, through blazing hills of crimson and amber vines. We enjoyed tastes of chardonnay, zinfandel and pinot noir at wineries that ranged from the hundred-year-old Hop Kiln to the recently opened Arista. Tasting rooms weren't crowded, so we could take our time sipping and chatting with the winemakers who were also relaxing after just having finished their harvest.

A half a block away from Les Mars is Healdsburg's historic plaza, a shady green square, surrounded by gourmet food shops, boutiques, a well-stocked independent bookstore, bakeries, galleries, and tasting rooms. We mingled with the locals at the Flying Goat cafe, filled up on tasty treats at the Downtown Bakery, and loaded up on souvenirs of local cheeses and olive oils at the Plaza Farms Market.

Our favorite dining experience was also on the plaza: Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen. The restaurant features ingredients from Sonoma farms, with a menu that changes weekly. A live jazz ensemble provided a pleasant background as the friendly wait staff, dressed in long white French bistro style aprons took care of us in the chic dining room.

Jon's appetizer of oysters, each topped with a small scoop of champagne sorbet was an ingenious combo. I loved the deep flavors of my "Market Vegetable Combination" - risotto with chanterelle mushrooms, eggplant, green beans, turnips and carrots, perfectly complemented with a glass of fruity pinot noir.

We also tried out Cyrus, the restaurant attached to Les Mars which is the latest venture of star chef Nick Peyton and has gotten raves from food critics. The 65-seat dining rooms was packed with patrons enjoying the champagne and caviar cart along with inventive rich dishes, served by waiters in stylish black suits. If you're in the mood to pay a high price for a state-of-the-art gourmet experience, this should not be missed.

No matter where our wanderings took us, we always enjoyed coming back to our room. In the evening, a pale gold box of scrumptious chocolates was left on our pillow. As the sconces flickered, we unwrapped it and settled in for sweet dreams on what we agreed was one of the most comfortable beds on earth.